FOLEY'S REAR MAIN SEAL

The rear main seal arrived yesterday in a 12"x 12"x 12" box via UPS. Now I ask you "why would Foleys put two 3/8" x 5 1/4" strips in such a large box? These two strips would fit in a small envelope. The shipping on this two pound box, (two pounds because they threw in a "free" worthless magazine) cost me $79.95 for shipping and handling. The only thing I can figure is that Foleys gets a kick back from UPS or a relative owns the local branch.

CAN YOU BELIEVE THE SIZE OF THIS BOX?

I would think that this greedy company would be satisfied with charging $ 119.00 for two $5.00 strips of braided rope. I guess they must justify their ridiculous handling charge by the big box and the worthless magazine.To top this off, there was an extra import charge of  369.07 Pesos ($27.64 USD).
INVOICE + SHIPPING & HANDLING

On the good side, I can now either fix the oil leak here or do it up North. Either way I will have to risk being caught in bad weather at anchor without a working engine. I want to leave La Paz, but will most likely stay for long enough to make the repair. I guess I'm just not a risk taker anymore. Believe it or not, I used to live on the wild careless side of life. Funny how life becomes more precious as you get older.

IMPORT TAX

The Dolphins have been visiting me every day for the past couple of weeks. I found out that they raise and train their young here in the bay. I have been trying to get some good shots of them in the air to no avail. Last night I went out and six, yes six Dolphins came bursting out of the water side by side as if they were racing. No, I didn't have my camera, but what a shot that would have made. By the time I got it they had stopped jumping, but I almost got these two later.

ALMOST CAUGHT THESE TWO

A FEEDING FRENZY?

DON BETO

Monday morning the 23rd of April, as I was preparing to my hatch for fiberglass Anibal pulled along side in his inflatable and asked if I would like to accompany him into the mountains to meet a friend of his. Well it took no more to convince me and I jumped at the opportunity. This time I actually remembered to take my camera. On our way to the dock we cavorted with a pod of Dolphins and then stopped by to visit with some amigos of Anibals who are refitting a sailboat. They hope to be sailing it by next year.


NEW SAILORS

After stopping to pick up Aldonsa, and a bite to eat, we were off and running. Until we ran out of gas. Luckily the gas station was only five blocks away. I enlightened Anibal of an old adage my father told me and that was "it is just as easy to keep the top one fourth of the tank full as it is the bottom one fourth. Somehow I don't think he appreciated the humor in it as we walked the ten block round trip in the heat. We did stop at the very next Pemex though.

We traveled out of La Paz through the surrounding hills and up into the mountains. I have to admit that I was not prepared when Anibal hit the breaks and then shot off the left side of the highway and down a dirt road, only to be stopped by a locked gate. There is nothing like a little adrenalin rush, to keep the old ticker going strong. He honked as we sat there, but no one came down, so it was walk up the hill to the house, which would not have been that bad, if not for the heat. We arrived on top of the hill to a fenced in "garden of eve" with many varieties of fruit trees and other plants and bushes. It is a truly beautiful spot, overlooking the Sea of Cortez. We were greeted by a large brown dog that was doing his best to sound vicious, but the rapidly wagging tail gave away his friendly nature.


DON BETO & ANIBAL

Aldonsa had taken a shortcut and arrived through the back prior to us and walked out to meet us with the rancho's owner, who greeted us with a big smile and handshake. We all piled into his truck and headed out. I hadn't a clue as to where we were going. All I had been told was that I would not be allowed to take photos of the archaeological sites, and that I should use my Spanish when speaking as much as possible, so as not to offend. Well this made me a little apprehensive, as my Espanol is very limited. I figured my best bet was to just keep my mouth shut (boca cerrada), and listen up. The owner Don Beto, turned out to be a fine gentleman that was a pleasure to be around. He took us to his lower house where his daughter and granddaughter live and introduced me, as I was the only stranger there.

DON BETO'S GRANDAUGHTER

After the introductions and some interesting conversation, Don Beto put on his belt, complete with knife and canteen. He then gathered up his granddaughter and off we went down and into an ancient stream bed. After awhile we came to a spot where there were ancient paintings on the rock walls. I was told that I should see them in the early morning light when the sun rising and the shadows created, make them stand out. Later that day I was invited to return and experience this marvel of nature.

After exploring this site we were taken to another site that we discussed the different possibilities of the geological formation and the possible collapse of some of the walls where you can see paintings extending into narrow crevices. These crevices would be impossible to paint inside of. I did take some photos of the flora in the area and of the people. I was also given permission to photograph some other things, but I declined to do so, vying on the side of respect. Sometimes patience really is bliss, as it can be rewarded blissfully, in time. Besides, I had enough photos for this post. Yup, you will just have to be patient also!


ANIBAL

As we were sitting around this site discussing its possibilities, Anibal directed my attention to an insect crawling on the sand. He said that is a blood sucker and is poisonous. He informed me that it can kill, but you can't feel it bite. We played around with it for awhile and it started getting very aggressive and actually trying to get on me. It started running toward me and actually got onto my shoe, but was rapidly repelled. That was enough of that (bastante insecto). Would you believe that when I yelled that to it, it turned and left?

I asked Anibal if Don Beta found his water by witching. He didn't know what I was talking about, so I explained how it is done and told him I could witch water, gold ,silver etc. He thought I was loco en la cabasa. That is until he mentioned it to Don Beto, who also witches water. We both use rods, but I told him how to witch with a pendulum and he was very attentive, asking many questions. At this point he seemed to become more comfortable with me as we had made a common bond through our witching.


NINO

When we returned to the house, Anibal asked if I would like to see and photo an old (late 1800s to present)
cemetery. We walked up and across the road to have a look. Well, you can see for yourself.

FLOWER CAP ON TOPPL

FLOWER CAP

1944

Inside this crack lies a very large black lizard with yellow rings

To be continued!

Amigos & Amigas

Yesterday, I spent the afternoon preparing a large enchilada type casserole, and all a cart tacos, burritos and salad fixings, for some local Mexican friends and two cruising friends. Pretty gutsy, making Mexican food for Mexicans, huh! My guests were, of course Anibal & Aldonsa, Irene, and some friends from Australia, Drew and Shelly on Born Free. Sorry, but I was too busy to take photos, but all in all, I think it turned out well. It was quite interesting with such a variety of people, cultures, and language differentiation. Anibal is bilingual and was our translator when needed. Aldonsa claims to speak very little English, I say "claims" because she seems to miraculously understand my English at times. Anibal has noticed this feat at times, with some trepidation, I might add. Irene, who speaks almost no English. Drew with his heavy Australian accent and Shelly who speaks a little Spanish. I was quite pleased when I received compliments on my Mexican food from these local Mexicans. As far as I'm concerned, that's about as good as it gets!

Drew traded dinghy's with me yesterday, so they could go sailing in the Bay. They went down wind and current when they left. You know "Murphy's Law," The wind died and I had to go rescue them. They were trying to paddle back against the current with the rudder on one side and the center board on the other. They were actually making progress, be it a mite slow. I suggested that next time, they might consider taking the oars along! All in all, it was a great day,especially ending it by "Breaking Bread" with some great people from different cultures.

Engine Access

I am stuck in La Paz again. It seems that there are some strong forces holding me here, no matter my strong desire to head North up the sea. I have discovered that the engine's rear main seal is leaking and must be replaced. I did my research on the subject and discovered that this is a common problem with the Perkins 4.108 engine. A place called Foleys has made a better seal that they claim will last without leaking if installed properly. I ordered one today at a cost of $109 + shipping. I can only hope that this will cure my problem of oil in the bilge.

I decided to cut out a section of the cockpit floor to enable easy access to the engine, water maker, auto pilot, and steering mechanism. With this engine access it will be much easier to fix the oil pan if it proves to be leaking also. Besides, it gives me something to do while I wait for the rear main seal to arrive from the states. The access hole is cut out and now I must seal all exposed wood surfaces with fiberglass to avoid core rot setting in, due to moisture. I must also make it water tight, to avoid any breach to the engine compartment. That should be a significant challenge.

Leaving La Paz?

Okay, I was supposed to leave yesterday, but as usual Wind Raven decided to stay a bit longer. I have no idea why she insists on staying, but in the long run I can only hope it will be for the best. I am now faced with another dilemma. While preparing for my departure I discovered oil in the bilge. In twelve hours of running the engine was down about a half a quart of oil. This would not seem to be a threat to the engine unless it got worse. The problem is that I think it might be a hole in the pan. If so, the question is, will it enlarge itself through the vibration of the engine. The pan is touching the bottom of the bilge and I feel that it might have caused the pan to rust, creating a small hole.

My options;
 I can stay here where parts, mechanics, and semi-safe anchorage are more readily available. I say semi-safe because of the opposing winds and currents that cause the La Paz waltz. I can sail North and try to make the repair in an anchorage that, if the leak becomes serious, could cause still more serious problems. I want to go North, but is it worth the risk? The main problem is that once I have the motor mounts loose and the engine raised ( to access the pan ), I would only be able to move under sail. I could also have problems with the motor mounts, since they are rusted and might have to be replaced. The slips are too expensive down here to even consider, so one way or the other, I will be at the mercy of the weather. My plan at present is as usual to vie with caution and safety in mind. That seems to be to stick around here at least until I know the exact cause of the leak. That means to get a second opinion from a good mechanic. At least then I can maybe make an informed decision. As you know, I had this leak supposedly repaired by a mechanic who assured me that it was not the pan, but a valve cover leak that was running down the block. Well it looks like he was full of it, as   the bilge testifies. Boy, when it rains, it pours!

Steve, I tried to comment on your blog, but couldn't. Is there some special way to do it, or doesn't your new blog site allow comments?

SPEAKING OF FRIENDS

I just want to thank an old friend that bailed me out of a very stressful situation of late. A few days ago I was informed that I could no longer store my Harley where it has been stored in Oregon. It was a safe secure private home that is no longer available to me. Now this was very disturbing news, since I was not given prior notice of the mandatory removal of said vehicle. It is not easy to comply with such a demand when you are over two thousand miles from the location in another country. I will not bore you with the details, but let it be said that I was very upset and extremely stressed out over the possible loss of my bike if I did not move it!

I sent an e-mail to an old friend in Nevada who some of you know as a person who comments regularly on this blog under the name "Crazy Coyote."  Our friend ship goes back to when we double dated in High School. He came to mexico not long ago for a visit and some fishing on Wind Raven. You may remember the photos of him with a large Red Snapper. In the e-mail I told him of my dilemma and asked if there were any places there that might take my bike on consignment. He not only said he would check on it, but said that he and his partner would get a trailer, drive up to Oregon, pick up the bike and haul it back, store it in his daughters body shop, and put it on consignment in one of the many Harley Shops there if I wanted. As if that wasn't enough, he refused to take any compensation for his efforts, gas, or other any other expenses incurred. His only request was that he might take it for a ride around the block when he got it home. Of course I acquiesced. This is a "thank you" and "tribute" to a long time friend from the days of old. They just don't make them like you any more Coyote. You are a true "Biker Brother," and there is no higher compliment that I can give any man!

"CRAZY COYOTE"  1972 1st PLACE DESERT RACING

MY SCOOTER HE SAVED

Friends Sharing Knowledge!

Last week I invited Anibal , Aldonza and Avelino to go to the Islands for a few days and do some fishing. As it turned out the wind put a damper on the fishing, but the exploring was fantastic, more about that later. 


A FRIENDLY SPECTATOR

 I spent the two days prior to leaving in preparation of our trip, making sure all was well and provisioning, securing my Dink on the bow etc. They came out to Wind Raven in Anibals cousin’s inflatable dinghy,which we were taking along to fish out of . After unloading It and getting their things secured below, we tied it to the stern in preparation of an early start in the morning. Everyone was tired but excited to be off in the morning.

   THE CREW!     

ANIBAL

ALDONZA

AVELINO

?????????

 My three guests had a bit of a hard time sleeping in their new surroundings, and of course about the time they began sleeping soundly, it was time for me to get up. I tried very hard to be as quiet as possible, and did quite well, I might add. That is until it was time to hook up the GPS and forward looking sonar. You see, a while back we were having some problems with thefts on our boats. As a precaution, I hung my Mega Phone beside the companionway entrance and ran some invisible line from the switch to the companionway boards. Now this Mega Phone is equipped with an optional Police siren, and when I say that it is extremely loud, I am making a horrendous understatement. I’m sure you have guessed what's coming, but let me tell you how it happened.

I can't remember the names of the numbered plants, so am waiting for Anibal to name them.
#1 

 Up to this point I had been as quiet as a mouse on Christmas Eve, but it was now time to go out into the cockpit to install the electronic screens on the podium. I was worried about making noise going up the squeaking companion ladder and waking someone up, so was a bit mentally distracted. As quietly as possible I reached into the garage and picked up the GPS and sonar screens. As I brought them under the Mega Phone, the loop on the end of invisible line hooked onto the GPS’s mounting bracket. Boy, is that SOB loud or what? Needless to say, we got off to an early start, with all hands up and about. That is after we quit holding our sides from laughing so hard. Aldonza was laughing so hard I was afraid she might bust a gut, literally. It was great the way they all took it in good humor. No morning grumps in that family! 


#2

There wasn’t much wind so we motor sailed out to Ensenada Grande, a very beautiful and protected anchorage on Isla Partida. We arrived in the early afternoon and enjoyed some kickback time in this beautiful calm bay.  On our second day we went exploring up a canyon where I learned how to spot old sites. It was quite a hands on education. The way the ancient indigenous people survived in this land is truly amazing. Especially the way they gathered their food. I thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me Anibal.

A FEW CAVES

As I said previously, the fishing wasn't good, but Avelino did manage to catch one off the deck of Wind Raven that we ate for breakfast. We went out in the inflatable and in the dink a few times but only caught a few very small fish. The bigger fish just weren't interested!


AVELINO"S TRIGGER FISH 

The reason I am holding Avelino's fish with pliers is because they crush coral with their teeth to eat and they bite very hard. Once they have a hold of you they won't let go. Yes, I know this from experience, and I have the scars to prove it!  


CAPTAIN AVELINO

ANCIENT CAVE

 Avelino stayed with the dinghy to make sure it would be there when we returned. What a great kid he is. In five days, I never heard him complain once, not about anything. He is a very happy camper. He also helped me with my Espanol and I his English. We went up a canyon and across the top of a mountain, discovering several caves used by primitives in ancient times.

ANOTHER CAVE

The terrain is a bit unstable and one must use extreme caution while ascending and descending, watching for cracks and loose rocks. It is also a wise person who keeps a sharp eye and ear out for rattle snakes. Yes they are coming out of hibernation about now and one must be very cautious. We didn’t see any, thank God.  As far as I’m concerned he could have left them out of his plan completely. I can’t handle snakes especially poisonous ones, and you can take that either way you wish, for they both apply. I could go on and on about this, but pictures are much better than words, so I will try not to bore you too much.

INSIDE ONE OF THE CAVES

AN INTERESTING FORMATION

SHELL REMAINS

A LARGE CAVE

Anibal knows many people including the ecological tourist guides, fishermen and boat captains. He is a store of information. I am actually looking forward to returning to La Paz next winter so I can see and experience more of their culture, and do much more exploring with Anibal. He is writing an illustrated book on archeological sites he has discovered in BCS, and is licensed by the Government to do so. I feel very privileged to be his friend and to have been taken into his confidence. He showed me his book templates and all of his fantastic photos that he has taken for his book and I can't wait for it to be published, so I can buy one.  I wish I could tell all of what I have learned, but I could never betray his trust in me. You will just have to wait for his book to come out also. I will let you know when it is published!

CHECK OUT THE LEDGE

WIND RAVEN AT ANCHOR

YEAH, I PUT HIM UP TO IT!

We were gone about five days. We did so much in those few days it seems to have blended together without too much distinction. It was just one hell of a good time with some great local people, that turned out to be greater friends. I can only hope everyone had as good of a time as I did.

AVELINO WATCHING THE DINGHY

ANIBAL IN ROJO, ADIOS!

As the times come back to me in the future I promise to add them to this, or as quips in future blogs. In the mean time, enjoy the photos!