Friends Sharing Knowledge!

Last week I invited Anibal , Aldonza and Avelino to go to the Islands for a few days and do some fishing. As it turned out the wind put a damper on the fishing, but the exploring was fantastic, more about that later. 


A FRIENDLY SPECTATOR

 I spent the two days prior to leaving in preparation of our trip, making sure all was well and provisioning, securing my Dink on the bow etc. They came out to Wind Raven in Anibals cousin’s inflatable dinghy,which we were taking along to fish out of . After unloading It and getting their things secured below, we tied it to the stern in preparation of an early start in the morning. Everyone was tired but excited to be off in the morning.

   THE CREW!     

ANIBAL

ALDONZA

AVELINO

?????????

 My three guests had a bit of a hard time sleeping in their new surroundings, and of course about the time they began sleeping soundly, it was time for me to get up. I tried very hard to be as quiet as possible, and did quite well, I might add. That is until it was time to hook up the GPS and forward looking sonar. You see, a while back we were having some problems with thefts on our boats. As a precaution, I hung my Mega Phone beside the companionway entrance and ran some invisible line from the switch to the companionway boards. Now this Mega Phone is equipped with an optional Police siren, and when I say that it is extremely loud, I am making a horrendous understatement. I’m sure you have guessed what's coming, but let me tell you how it happened.

I can't remember the names of the numbered plants, so am waiting for Anibal to name them.
#1 

 Up to this point I had been as quiet as a mouse on Christmas Eve, but it was now time to go out into the cockpit to install the electronic screens on the podium. I was worried about making noise going up the squeaking companion ladder and waking someone up, so was a bit mentally distracted. As quietly as possible I reached into the garage and picked up the GPS and sonar screens. As I brought them under the Mega Phone, the loop on the end of invisible line hooked onto the GPS’s mounting bracket. Boy, is that SOB loud or what? Needless to say, we got off to an early start, with all hands up and about. That is after we quit holding our sides from laughing so hard. Aldonza was laughing so hard I was afraid she might bust a gut, literally. It was great the way they all took it in good humor. No morning grumps in that family! 


#2

There wasn’t much wind so we motor sailed out to Ensenada Grande, a very beautiful and protected anchorage on Isla Partida. We arrived in the early afternoon and enjoyed some kickback time in this beautiful calm bay.  On our second day we went exploring up a canyon where I learned how to spot old sites. It was quite a hands on education. The way the ancient indigenous people survived in this land is truly amazing. Especially the way they gathered their food. I thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with me Anibal.

A FEW CAVES

As I said previously, the fishing wasn't good, but Avelino did manage to catch one off the deck of Wind Raven that we ate for breakfast. We went out in the inflatable and in the dink a few times but only caught a few very small fish. The bigger fish just weren't interested!


AVELINO"S TRIGGER FISH 

The reason I am holding Avelino's fish with pliers is because they crush coral with their teeth to eat and they bite very hard. Once they have a hold of you they won't let go. Yes, I know this from experience, and I have the scars to prove it!  


CAPTAIN AVELINO

ANCIENT CAVE

 Avelino stayed with the dinghy to make sure it would be there when we returned. What a great kid he is. In five days, I never heard him complain once, not about anything. He is a very happy camper. He also helped me with my Espanol and I his English. We went up a canyon and across the top of a mountain, discovering several caves used by primitives in ancient times.

ANOTHER CAVE

The terrain is a bit unstable and one must use extreme caution while ascending and descending, watching for cracks and loose rocks. It is also a wise person who keeps a sharp eye and ear out for rattle snakes. Yes they are coming out of hibernation about now and one must be very cautious. We didn’t see any, thank God.  As far as I’m concerned he could have left them out of his plan completely. I can’t handle snakes especially poisonous ones, and you can take that either way you wish, for they both apply. I could go on and on about this, but pictures are much better than words, so I will try not to bore you too much.

INSIDE ONE OF THE CAVES

AN INTERESTING FORMATION

SHELL REMAINS

A LARGE CAVE

Anibal knows many people including the ecological tourist guides, fishermen and boat captains. He is a store of information. I am actually looking forward to returning to La Paz next winter so I can see and experience more of their culture, and do much more exploring with Anibal. He is writing an illustrated book on archeological sites he has discovered in BCS, and is licensed by the Government to do so. I feel very privileged to be his friend and to have been taken into his confidence. He showed me his book templates and all of his fantastic photos that he has taken for his book and I can't wait for it to be published, so I can buy one.  I wish I could tell all of what I have learned, but I could never betray his trust in me. You will just have to wait for his book to come out also. I will let you know when it is published!

CHECK OUT THE LEDGE

WIND RAVEN AT ANCHOR

YEAH, I PUT HIM UP TO IT!

We were gone about five days. We did so much in those few days it seems to have blended together without too much distinction. It was just one hell of a good time with some great local people, that turned out to be greater friends. I can only hope everyone had as good of a time as I did.

AVELINO WATCHING THE DINGHY

ANIBAL IN ROJO, ADIOS!

As the times come back to me in the future I promise to add them to this, or as quips in future blogs. In the mean time, enjoy the photos!

Danza de los Voladores

I did a little research on the internet and this is a brief summary of what was on Wikipedia.

The Danza de los Voladores (Dance of the Flyers), or Palo Volador (Pole Flying), is an ancient Mesoamerican ceremony/ritual still performed today, albeit in modified form, in isolated pockets in Mexico and Guatemala. It is believed to have originated with the Nahua, Huastec and Otomi peoples in central Mexico, and then spread throughout most of Mesoamerica. The ritual consists of dance and the climbing of a 30 meter pole from which four of the five participants then launch themselves tied with ropes to descend to the ground. The fifth remains on top of the pole, dancing and playing a flute and drum. According to one myth, the ritual was created to ask the gods to end a severe drought. Although the ritual did not originate with the Totonac people, today it is strongly associated with them, especially those in and around Papantla in the Mexican state of Veracruz. The ceremony was named an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in order to help the ritual survive and thrive in the modern world.

According to Totonac myth, at least 450 years ago there was a severe drought that brought hunger to the people. The gods were withholding the rain because the people had neglected them. The ceremony was created, to appease the gods and bring back the rains. In some versions of the story, the ritual is created by the old men of a village, who then chose five young men who were chaste. In other versions, the five men themselves create the ritual. The tallest tree in the nearby forest is cut down, with the permission of the mountain god, stripped of branches and dragged to the village. The trunk is erected with much ceremony. The youths climb the pole and four jump off while the fifth played music. The ritual pleased the rain god Xipe Totec and other gods, so the rains began again and the fertility of the earth returned.


History

The exact origin of this ritual/dance is unknown, but it is thought to have originated with the Huastec, Nahua and Otomi peoples in Sierra del Puebla and mountain areas of Veracruz. The ritual spread through much of the Mesoamerican world until it was practiced from northern Mexico to Nicaragua. Evidence for the ritual stretches back at least as far as pre-Classic period according to ceramics found in Nayarit. In pre-Hispanic times, the ritual was far more complex, involving taboos and meditation. The participants were thought to impersonate birds and in some areas were dressed as parrots, macaws, quetzals and eagles. These birds represented the gods of the earth, air fire and water. By the 16th century, the ritual was strongly associated with solar ceremonies, such as the spring equinox. The ritual is most closely tied with rain and solar deities such as Xipe, Totec and Tlazotlteotl.

In Maya mythology the creation of the world is associated with a mythical bird deity (Itzamna) residing at the World Tree (the center of the world). Five "birdmen" at the top of a pole represent bird deities. The main dancer stands in the center and plays a flute, which represents the sound of birds singing. The four other "birdmen" (representing the four directions) spin around the pole to represent the recreation of the world (and the regeneration of life) In the early form, instead of one five men there are six men dressed as birds with each member climbing on top and performing a dance and at the end tied ropes around their waste and who all jump in unison and descend downwards. Many villages in Mexico banned this version of the practice due to injuries and even death. 

Diego Duran, who recorded many Aztec customs at the time of the Spanish conquest, described an incident reminiscent of the Danza de los Voladores, where an Aztec prince, Ezhuahuacatl, sacrificed himself by diving from a pole 20 "brazas" high. The four modern day voladores typically circle the pole 13 times each, for a total of 52 circuits, or the number of years in the Aztec "calendar round".

The ritual was partially lost after the Conquest, and the Spaniards destroyed many records about it. The Church was much against pagan rituals such as these after the Conquest and this and many other rituals were silenced or practiced in secret. Much of what is known is due to oral tradition and writing by the first Europeans to come to Mexico. Later, Catholic elements would be added to the ritual, and it became something of a spectacle in the later colonial period. The ritual mostly disappeared in Mexico and Central America with small remnants surviving, including the Totonac people.

Although the ritual did not originate with the Totonacs, today it is often associated with the Totonacs of the Papantla area in Veracruz. In modern times, a number of changes have occurred. Due to the deforestation of much of the Sierra de Puebla and mountain areas of Veracruz, most voladores perform on permanent metal poles, which in Veracruz are often donated by the oil industry. The most controversial change has been the induction of women to perform the ceremony. Traditionally, it has been taboo to allow women to become voladores but a few have become such, all of whom are in Puebla state. One of the first males to train women, Jesús Arroyo Cerón, was killed in 2006, when he fell from a pole during the Cerro Tajin celebrations in 2006. The elders of the Totonacs believe this was divine retribution and still prohibit the performance of the ritual to women participants.

If you wish to view more history and videos, search  "Danza de los Voladores" on the internet!

The Shack

One of the places I eat out at occasionally is "The Shack." It lies two blocks off the Malicon. To find it you turn up the hill at the statue of the Mermaid and the Dolphin. If you walk up the right side, it is two and one quarter blocks on the right. However, if you walk up the left side, it is only one and a quarter blocks on the right. I need the exercise, so I go up the right side! It's better for the ego, you know?

The writings on the wall  of the Shack are of cruisers and their boats. The Shack has the largest, one half pound, and best hamburgers in La Paz. Their prices are very reasonable also.

Travis was working on the roof the other day and crashed through it. He landed on a table and a chair, which broke his fall somewhat. Everyone keeps saying that he was lucky. That's what the doctor said to me when I fell three and a half stories and broke my back in five places, among several other injuries. My response to him was; "Bull Shit" Luck starts "BEFORE YOU FALL, NOT AFTER YOU FALL."

THE OWNERS, TRAVIS AND ROSE

YA SUPPOSE THE FALLING DUMMIE REPRESENTS TRAVIS ?

THE SAIL COVERED DINING AREA

LOOKING TOWARDS THE ENTRANCE

LOOKS GROUCHY, BUT HE'S REALLY JUST IN PAIN!

VALADORES DE PAPANTLA

I went to lunch with Anibul at a place that serves goat meat Mexican style. We had our choice of wet or dry meat. We ordered the wet, which meant that it came in the form of a soup. There was a lot of meat in the soup that was very tender and flavorful.  I think that I need to get a smaller camera to carry with me, as mine is rather cumbersome and makes me look like a rich tourist, which I am certainly not. I would put a photo of it here, but I would have to use a mirror to do it. Yeah, I have to get a smaller one.

 After lunch Anibal informed me that the Valadores de Papantla were performing a ritual beside the main pier on the malicon and said we should go watch it. He explained that it was performed at this time every year and that the performers were picked by their fellow villagers for their purity of soul. This ceremony performed to celebrate spring and I am told to bring rain. This I hope is correct as much is lost in translation, but I think I got it right. If not, I’m sure someone will enlighten me, or at least I hope so.

I have’nt been able to figure out how to put the video on the blog yet, but here is the link!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o0wVN9gpDlA

A PICNIC WITH ANABAL AND FAMILY

Yesterday Anibal and his son came by and invited me to join his family on an outing into the mountains. I accepted his most generous offer, feeling quite honored to have been accepted by him and his family as a friend. The majority of the Mexican people are very friendly and courteous to gringos, but it is not that common for them to share their personal life and their special places.at the time I didn't realize just how very privileged I was to become . Unfortunately, I failed to take my camera along, but then maybe it is as Anibal said; “sometimes the pictures are better in your head”  I do believe he is right, as I feel an inner desire to keep this very special day private, for my perusal only. No, I will not be so selfish as to do so; it is just not in my constitution. I did take one photo of Anibal’s family next to the fire with Anibal's camera in their special camp area, where we had a delicious picnic meal of quesadillas with marinated beef, cheese, and grilled onions.




ANIBAL, ALDONZA, & AVELINO

As Anibal’s lovely lady Aldonza and son Avelino, went out to collect wood for the fire, we were joined by three stray adolescent black pigs. These guys were pretty tame and in search for food. Anibal threw them some orange peels that kept them busy for awhile. I wondered if it was wise to entice them with food before we vacated the area, as strays can become pests at times, but said nothing. Later I was to be proved correct when, as Anibal turned his back, the pigs ran up and stole his quesadilla off the grill. We all cracked up laughing, especially his lady, who about fell over over, she was laughing so hard at the expression on Anibals face.

The picnic area was very nice, with beautiful oak trees providing more than ample shade. It was a kind of oasis in the Desert Mountains minus the spring. After we had eaten, Anabals son nine year old son made sure the fire was out, while the rest of us loaded the car and picked up our trash. As we drove out I was informed that we were going to stop at a private ranch that was an ecological site, owned by his friends. He said it is a very special place that he is only allowed to bring two people into on occasion. He also smiled and said that his son didn’t count.

As we drove through the Desert Mountains I was enlightened of the  names of the local plants, bushes, trees, and their medicinal uses, one of which gives off red flowers year round. This local knowledge also included one deadly poisonous plant exuding a milky substance when cut and one small tree whose sap bleed out an amber color when cut and then as it dried it turned red to match exact color of blood. It is believed that this substance was used for the dye to paint the petroglyphs. I only wish that I could remember it all. It was quite interesting to me and was exactly the type of experience I have been seeking in Mexico. To be educated by the local people of their country and their culture, I feel is a very special experiance. I feel very privileged indeed!

The view overlooking the sea was beautiful from this twisting dirt road we traveled on high up in the mountains, as we progressed to our next mysterious destination. On this road there lie a couple of small hamlets, and many small ranches with goats in corals and cattle running free. I have to wonder how these people can survive in this beautiful, but desolate country. It caught me by surprise when we made a sharp right turn onto an even smaller track that led up a hill and around a large boulder. Further up and off to the left I noticed a young man who began walking toward us as our vehicle approached. This young man began to smile when he recognized Anibal . You could tell they were old friends by their exuberant greeting and the sincere happiness exhibited. I must apologize for my poor memory when it comes to names. I am very bad at it. Anyway, this young man was very nice and extremely informative. He led us up an old dry wash to an ancient area on the side of a mountain that had a gigantic round boulder (Piedra Gorda) sitting at the head of the wash. All around this boulder there were many smaller boulders, with many concave indentations, that were used by the ancients to grind wild seeds into flour. There were also petroglyphs of fish, painted in red on the huge boulder. Under this boulder at one end there was a hollow area that went back about twelve feet or so. Bones had been discovered in its recesses in the past that indicated it had been used as a burial site. On the upper side of this huge boulder there were more grinding stones and large slabs of  rock that had separated from and fallen to the ground. These slabs were right beside the visible petroglyphs. This made me  wonder what archaeological treasures might lay hidden beneath them. Looking at the extending cracks also makes one very nervous standing under them. This somewhat precariously balanced boulder is quite intimidating, especially with the aforementioned fragmented surface. Viewing this area of isolated scattered boulders also makes one wonder where they came from, and how they got there in the first place. After we thoroughly exploring the area we started walking back to the car. We were informed that the chipmonk that kept darting around corners and then peeking at us , was called Pepe.When we arrived back at the car and Anabal informed me that his friend wanted to show me some of his collection from the site. His friend walked up to his house to get something and when he returned he had two spear points in his hand. When I saw them I was dumbfounded. They were both ancient and I mean ancient. One of the two stood out tremendously and I could not believe my eyes!


At this point I must interject a bit of my history concerning spear points. In the late 60s and early 70s, I lived on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Mountains, at Crowley Lake Ca. One of my endeavors was the hunting of arrow heads and spear points. A friend of my first wife and I discovered a very rare spear head called a Clovis Point. A Clovis Point was used on spears by the ancients to hunt and kill Mammoth Elephants. Our friend (Doris Behinke), was given the honor of having the archaeological site where she found it named after her.  At the time there had only been one other Clovis point found in America, and that was in Texas.


 In the 80s I met and befriended a man (Ron), through a mutual interest in Harleys. One day while working on his bike we got around to speaking of hunting for arrowheads and spear points. He asked if I would like to see his collection. When we went into the house he brought out a framed arrangement of arrowheads with one    larger white point as center piece. When I saw this point I was astounded, as I was looking on a second Clovis point. He informed me that he had found it the summer before, at Fern Ridge Lake, OR. Yes, this site was also named in his honor. I couldn't believe that I personally knew two of three people who had made such rare finds. 

Yeah, you guessed it. There in Anibals friends hand was the third Clovis point I had ever seen. I don’t know if more have been found since I was into hunting points, but this was still an extraordinary and beautiful experience. The other point was very large, about 8” long and 4” wide, and definitely a spear point used to kill Mammoths. While he showed me these points his grandfather came by and said hello and then his father came down to visit. His father approached me introducing himself with a big smile and started carrying on a on a one sided conversation with me. One sided because I had no idea what he was saying (gotta learn Spanish) , I finally got it across to him that I didn’t speak Spanish well. After that we communicated with Anibal as translator. He carried in his hand a braided piece of rope he had made that was quite impressive.After examining it, I asked if he needed rope and he said he did. I told him I had extra on my boat and that I would bring him some. That’s great because now I have an excuse to revisit the site (with camera) to take him some of the coils of braided line (sheets) that I have in the bilge. I promise to take photos next time if they will let me.   

On the way back to La Paz we were treated to a magnificently gorgeous sunset, which climaxed the most magnificent day in Baja California SUR I have experienced. Thank you, oh so much Anibal, for a wonderful day and a beautiful friendship!

Drew & Shelly

Last week I met a very nice couple, Drew and Shelly of SV Born Free who stopped by for a visit. We got around to talking about dinghies, hard vs inflatable, and the advantages/disadvantages of both. Drew mentioned that he really enjoyed Dinghy sailing, so I offered them the use of the Dink the next day.  The next morning the wind was light, but was supposed to pick up later. I decided to dig out the sail, mast, center board and tiller, just in case the weather guy happened to be correct in his prediction. I got it ready to sail and tied it off behind Wind Raven. 

GETTING STARTED

CATCHING UP?

That afternoon they came by and took the Dink out for a sail. The wind was still pretty light, but was doable. Drew un-ferruled the sail and started off with Shelly following alongside in their dinghy. As they sailed off, I could hear Drew explaining what he was doing and why. About this time I came to the realization that Shelly hadn’t sailed a dinghy before. Cool, it was a first. Anyway, after a short time they switched places and Drew was instructing Shelly from their dinghy running alongside the Dink. It wasn’t long before she had the basics down and Drew fell back and let her go.

HA! MISSED THE BOW

GETTING THE FEEL OF IT ?  NA, GOT IT!

The wind died down to where the current over came it and made it next to impossible to make decent headway. At that point they towed the Dink back over to Wind Raven to await a better day. May be they will go out again today…..If the wind “dies down” some. Ya know, sometimes ya just can’t win, but it sure is fun trying!

Aground #2

I sure hope this recent trend of running aground isn't contagious. Although it is tending to appear so, as another one bit the dust/sand. Maybe it's just that old adage about bad events happening in groups of threes. No I'm not looking for another, I'm hoping the boat that ran aground south of here will count as the first and these two are follow ups.

THE FIRST AGROUND IS STILL SITTING HIGH

THE SECOND ONE AGROUND, BUT IS NOW FREE

 THE DOLPHINS WERE THERE TO SUPERVISE!

The second boat on the bar here weighed forty tons and the cruisers were debating the possibility of pulling it off the bar, due to the minimal tide variation yesterday. Of course there were the usual adamant "Nay Sayers," of which were happily proved wrong last night. At high tide a group of positive minded cruisers put their minds together and pulled it off the bar at the minimal high tide. I like positive minded people. There's just no stopping them!

JUST A COUPLE OF SUNSETS

A PASTEL SUNSET