Leaving Loreto
Dorado
Judy and I left Puerto Escondido for Loreto last Friday at around seven in the morning. After leaving the bay I decided we might as well wet a couple of lines since the Dorado (Mahi Mahi) were due to be moving into the sea. I baited them with a green and white rubber squid and a six tapered six inch strip of real squid that Judy had been complaining about stinking up the refrigerator of late. About twenty minutes later one of the reels started singing and Judy, being at the helm, started screaming FISH ! FISH! FISH! unfortunately she did not know that when a fish hits the bait one is supposed to slow the boat, as we were trolling at four and a half knots. This slowing of the boat is to avoid ripping the hook out of the fish’s mouth, or worse yet, ripping its lips off. Since it was over fourteen miles to Loreto we still had a chance to tie into another one. I rebaited the hooks and off we went. About ten minutes later a reel started singing again and I heard Judy’s FISH! Fish! Fish! once more. I tried to get her to take the rod, but she would have no part of it. This time she slowed the boat perfectly and I began reeling in a nice sized Mahi Mahi. It jumped several times and its acrobatics made it a lot of fun. I got it up to the boat and it turned out to be larger than the previous ones caught and I tried to lift it into the boat by the leader while Judy was getting the net, which snapped of course, and we watched it swim merrily away. After showing due shame while being chastised for not waiting on the net, I rebaited again. They say the third time is the charm and it was. We both did our jobs correctly this time and enjoyed some great meals from our efforts.
On The Way
We arrived at Loreto and anchored in eighteen feet of water on a leeward shore with under two foot swells. Judy had to take care of some business on the phone that took a couple of hours. By the time we got to the dinghy dock it was too late to make the Farmers Market. Maybe next week we can. When we arrived at the dock there were several young boys waiting to tie up our dinghy and help unload, not only our stuff, but us too. They were very cute and extremely courteous. We secured their services to watch our dinghy for us and gave them partial payment. We then headed into town, walking down the Malecon along the beach for several blocks before turning right and going up the wide stone paved road to the Mission in the central square. We met a Taxi driver who drove us around to procure supplies and to get a 160 Lb block of ice for our boat. When we arrived at the marina the Taxi driver pulled right up to the dinghy dock where two young men came over and picked up the ice and loaded it and all of our supplies into the boat. One young man stayed in the dinghy to help Judy aboard while the other held the boat steady. In the US you only get that kind of service in the most exclusive hotel resorts. We tipped them of course, along with the boys who watched our boat while we were in town. Heading out to our boat in our overloaded dink was a bit touchy with only four inches of freeboard in the stern and two foot swells, but we made it okay. If we would have had any problems I’m sure we would have immediately received help, as that is the way of the people down here. It is very refreshing to experience such a kind and courteous population. We spent the night anchored off Loreto.
A Friendly Pelican
Loreto
The next morning we hauled anchor and headed out for Bahia Salinas on the North East side of the island. On our way over we looked at the “Cruising Guide” and decided to stop at Puerto Ballandro, located on the North West end of Isla Carmen. This is a picture perfect cove giving excellent protection from all quarters. We are checking out all anchorages in the area due to the existing hurricane season. At this time there was an existing hurricane (DORA) South of Cabo that we were watching closely. The entrance to Puerto Balandro is a somewhat narrow channel with reefs on both sides. The forward looking sonar justifies its cost tenfold when navigating areas such as this. We entered without problem and set our anchor in the South West corner. We spent two nights at this anchorage fishing and snorkeling. This was Judy’s first time snorkeling and she loved it. I will let her describe her experience to you. I will say that she said something about being in an underwater Disneyland.
A Loreto Sunrise
Bahia Salinas
Bahia Salinas Chapel
After spending two nights at this beautiful anchorage we headed out once again for Bahia Salinas with its sunken 120’ long sunken ship in the middle of the bay, and its Ghost Town. The town is company-owned and once had a thriving salt producing plant. We sailed around the tip of Isla Carmen at Punta Lobos and then headed South past Punta Perico and into Bahia Salinas. As we entered the bay we passed Punta Perico South which is an anchorage that I used when Bill was visiting. My main concern entering this bay was the exact location of the wreck. In one guide book it shows it before the abandoned red and white tower about three hundred yards. In the other book it shows it at least a thousand yards beyond the tower. This does not instill confidence in one's approach. The guide books also disagree on the position in the ba'ys center or along the North East side. We approached on the North East side as far as the tower, but could not spot it. There is supposed to be about six feet of it sticking above water. At this point I turned around and retraced our course and when satisfied that we were clea,r headed across the bay and started our approach from the South side. We finally spotted what was left of the wreck above water, about a foot that was only visible due to the sea birds perched on it.
Caretaker Quarters
The Caretaker
We anchored in fifteen feet of crystal clear water in front of the little white church. Upon completing our chores we jumped into the dinghy and headed for shore. Several people had informed us that if we asked the caretaker for permission, he would allow us to explore and photograph the abandoned buildings. There were two very nice buildings. They had old wagons in front that were filled with different cactus plants. These turned out to be the offices and caretaker's residence and were located close to the shore. As we approached I took photos of these buildings and the wagons. The Caretaker gave us permission to explore the old buildings, but as we were heading over to them he called to us and came hurrying over. He began speaking with about ten Lo sientos ( I’m sorrys). He then explained, very apologetically, that the company people were here and that we wouldn’t be able to enter the buildings while they were here. He said that we could see them the next day if we wanted. He was extremely nice and very sorry. We assured him that we didn’t mind, but we would be leaving the next morning as we needed to check on the hurricane's position. Maybe we can see them next time.
Judy Greeting The Caretaker
The Caretakers Boys
The Culprit
The following morning we headed for Bahia Marquer located on the South West side of the island. We sailed around the southern tip of the island which has a sand spit extending out a quarter mile. We then headed north to our next stop. While on our way one of the reels started singing and I grabbed it, but as I was about to retrieve it, I noticed a very large bird flopping around behind the boat. Yep, I caught a Pelican. I tried reeling him in, but he seemed to be tangled in the line and would go upside down when I tried to bring him in. I decided to give him some slack and take the boat to him. As I approached him he somehow untangled himself and was free. You would think that after this traumatic experience the bird would fly off into the sunset, never to come close to a boat again. Not so with this individual. He would let us get about a hundred yards ahead and then fly up to the boat and land right beside us. He repeated this all the way to our next anchorage. The anchorage at Bahia Marquer is stunning with its crystal clear turquoise water and colored cliffs. If a person did not have refrigeration and wished seafood as a steady diet, they would do well here, as dinner is readily available day or night. The fishing is excellent. I hear the picking of abalone and clams is also excellent here. I wouldn’t know, as I refuse to eat the slimy little critters!
Trigger Fish YUM-YUM!
Judy At The Helm
Another View
We stayed in Bahia Marquer for several days before sailing the seven miles to Loreto where we anchored out and had a visit by a very nice young man (Jorge) and his four year old son. They came out in a Kayak to the boat and the little boy wanted to see the boat. We had a nice visit and made a new friend in Loreto. We left Loreto to return to Bahia Marquer to a sunset which was absolutely stunning. We stayed several more days at this beautiful anchorage before returning to Puerto Escondido for fuel yesterday. We will sail back to Bahia Marquer this afternoon and then to Loreto Sunday, for the Sunday Market to restock. I will try to get Judy to add her female touch to this post asap. In the mean time I’m going FISHING!
Puffer Fish Skeleton
The Way Our Day Starts
How About Yours?
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