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Now single male in search of true freedom via the cruising life on the high seas.

Wind Raven

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Monday, February 28, 2011

Last leg begins!

It's eight thirty in the evening on the 28th of feb. We are now retiring and when we arise in the morning we are leaving for points south. See ya in a week or so!

Jose's Family

Yesterday morning Jose came by with his girlfriend around eleven. He explained that his family was coming down from Los Angeles and would be here soon. He apologized for the inconvenience and invited us to join them and their family for breakfast. Knowing their financial situation we declined, feeling that they might feel obligated to buy us breakfast. We had already eaten anyway. He said they would come by later in the afternoon, if it was okay. They did show up later with their family and Jose asked if his family could see the boat. We said they were welcome and all seven came down to check it out. When Jose’s brother spoke, his voice took me back. It was uncanny how it sounded exactly like an old brother of mine who had been T-boned on his Harley, and killed a few years ago. Even his laugh was exactly the same. When I told him how he sounded like my friend, out of the blue I jokingly said; are you in there? It took me back again when he responded with “maybe.” A typical response Mickey would have said. Uncanny!


After they left Judy and I went for a walk downtown where the hawkers no longer bother us, due to seeing us around so much they have given up. So Judy fooled them by buying a hanging chair. She had forgotten the rose. You see, the other day we had been walking peacefully through the venders when a man came up and offered a rose for a dollar. I asked Judy if she wanted it and she said sure. I laughed, paid the man and said “now you are marked.” She asked what I meant and I replied that the vendors would now think she is a buyer and would pester her. Sure enough they did. She left the rose on a bicycle that was locked to a post. I wonder what images the owner of that bicycle conjured up in his mind when he found it.

Today we will get our Zarpe (exit papers) and fuel, I hope. We ended up waiting for the manager to supply it for several reasons. First and foremost, is that I don’t have to pack it miles with my malo back. The weather looks good except for a small local storm just north of Bahia De Tortuga. We are watching it closely. Maybe, if God is with us, it will dissipate. The winds look good, as long as the squall is not electrical, it will be okay. If we leave tomorrow, we won’t get into it until Friday. Then again if we wait, next week looks very bad. Will have to watch how it develops. So it is up in the air right now.

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Rain

Somehow I never thought it rained in Ensenada. I always had this picture of hot sunshine with blistering walkways. Well, I'm here to tell you, It damned sure rains in Ensenada, Mexico and gets cold too, just like Oregon.It has been raining for two days now and I mean raining, not just drizzling. We decided to hibernate in the boat yesterday due to the inclimate weather. While lounging around inside the warm dry salon I remembered that our friend in La Paz (Steve) had sent a message concerning the tidal surge here. He said the surge had caused considerable damage to his dock lines and that I should make sure I had adequate chafe guards installed. I decided rain or no, I had better check. Sure enough, the stern line was begining to chafe. I didn't have anything to make a guard out of handy, so I opted to remove the existing port dock line that had a chafe guard installed and replace it with the starboard line. While performing this miniscule task I had managed to get pretty wet and very cold in my imagined Ensenada "sunshine." After putting on some dry clothes, I reminded Judy that we needed some bread and asked if she wanted to walk to a bakery where we had sampled some goods earlier. She acquised, so adorning warm clothes and rain jackets, off we went into town. On our way to the Bakery we discovered that wearing our sandals was not a good idea. Oh, we skirted the deep puddles, but the water still encroached, squishing up through the soles. Prior to reaching the Bakery, as we passed a line of cabs, Judy looked up and asked; wanna take a cab to Costco? I thought, dry, and said yeah!

We jumped into a cab and off we went. The cab ride was a bit exciting, with the driver making his own lanes and cutting off others, as if he owned the road. Although it was not nearly as exciting as the cab rides I had experienced in Tiajuana back in the early sixties. We were amazed to discover that Costco's prices are considerably higher in Ensenada than in the US. Judy said that she was glad that we had not listened to the people who had said not to stock up in the Costcos in the US, because they had Costcos in Mexico. We saved a lot of money by stocking up in Oregon. Maybe the people who said this were more concerned with convenience than money.We ended up spending almost as much on the cab fare as we did at Costco. I now understand why they built the store so far from town in an area of obviously more affluent area. (Judy just got up and said the sun was trying to break through, and that it looked like it was going to be a sunny day.)

Once back to the barco we donned rubber boots and were off to the Bakery once again. This time we took a different route and discovered a Tacoria  on our way. We stopped in, but as usual no one spoke English so we didn't know how to order corn tortillas. We finally said the hell with it and bought flour tortillas, as they were on display. Once at the Bakery we purchased several small loaves of bread and many treats, YUM! Then it was back to the barco to enjoy said treats and continue with our " just lounging around day."

Today we are having guests over. We met a very nice young man (Jose) who was raised in Los Angeles, CA, but born in Mexico. He speaks fluent English and is a very respectful young man. We met him while searching for a place to buy diesel. He  was on his way to work and offered to show us the way and didn't want any gratis for it. A rare commodity in a young man here. He and his girlfriend are coming over for lunch today. Judy will be making her fish tacos. It will be interesting to observe how Mexicans like them. Oh wow, now it is all blue sky and sunshine outside--guess it just had to get all the rain out of its system!

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Ensenada & Waiting

It seems that this cruising life style is a lot more preparation and work than anything else. Our friends, Steve and Lulu, continue to assure us that it will be well worth the effort once we arrive in the Sea of Cortez. We are over half way there now, with only two places to possibly stop on our route past Cabo San Lucas to Los Frailes. We will anchor at Los Frailes, to get what I am sure will be some much needed rest, after sailing nonstop from Bahia De Tortuga. Then the short sail to La Paz. After La Paz we will sail to Puerto Escondido. This is the Anchorage that will be our home base for the next year or so. It is about fifteen miles south of Loretto, as near as I can tell. They have an international yacht club there that only costs eighty dollars a year. Being internationally recognized means that you get free, or discounted slip rates at similar yacht clubs. You also get the use of their services, such as the pool, showers, activities etc. The same as if you were a member of their club. This guest privilege is for a limited time, of course. Nonetheless, it will save money in the long run, not to mention being fun to experience.


As you know we are at present in Ensenada. All of our paperwork is completed and we have our visas. We will be heading south after we fuel up, locate a small water leak in the drinking water system, and service the auto pilot. Weather permitting, of course. Yesterday, we walked all over town to find propane, Freon, and to go to the bank. Today, we will service the auto pilot, locate a leak in the water system, Pack diesel fuel from the gas station, and transfer coordinates from our charts to the GPS. We have been waiting two days for fuel from Baha Naval to no avail. When I asked, I was told they would have to check their supply to see if they had enough. I tried to ask again yesterday, but could never locate the manager to ask. So today, we pack seventy gallons from the station. Baha Naval charges three dollars a gallon. I don’t know what the station charges, but I’m sure it is less.

The people here are very different from the people further south. The street hawkers are a little too friendly, to a point of being pushy, one might say. It is easy to tell that their friendliness is superficial, to say the least. However, the further you get away from the tourist area, the more real the people become. This is especially so when you attempt to address them in their own language. I noticed that if you walk past a person and say nothing, they sometimes pass with trepidation. However if you greet them in their language they are much friendlier greeting you back with a smile. It reminded me of home when we have to dial one for English vs. a real person speaking to us in our language. I enjoyed walking through the barrio section, and the people there. Some of the homes were one room shacks, with other very nice homes next door. Most people at home don’t like this, thus zoning. I personally do like it. I like it when people are free to do as they please with the land they own "the right to pay taxes on." The fact that we actually pay someone to tell us what we can and can not do with our property, never has made any sense to me. Think about it!

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

SD To Ensenada

We finally made it to Mexico. Yep, we are in Ensenada. We experienced absolutely no problems whatsoever. The engine ran like a Swiss watch, along with all other systems. Oh we still have some electrical issues that can wait until we are situated in the Sea of Cortez.

We left the A-9 Anchorage in SD at nine thirty, went to the Harbor Police dock to refurbish our water supply and do laundry. At around twelve thirty we headed out for Mexico. I have to admit that I was a bit apprehensive considering our luck, or lack thereof, in the past. Then again, what might seem to be bad luck, in the end turns out to be, not only good, but great luck. If one considers the possible consequences of a major break down along the Baja west coast, where there is no access to parts or supplies, we were very lucky to have discovered these maladies and made the necessary repairs prior to making the passage.

The moon was bright, the sky clear and the sea calm with no wind. Oh well. You can’t have everything, besides it was a good time to check out my repairs on the engine. On the way over from the anchorage I had discovered a hose clamp that needed tightening, ops. This certainly doesn’t instill confidence in one’s ability, thus the apprehension I was feeling. Since we were beginning our journey at night, I opted to go outside the Coronado Islands, rather than between them as the locals do. Better to be on the safe side. After hours that seemed like days to navigate around these little islands, I began to have second thoughts. About half way around, Judy’s clock had wound down and she went below to catch some shut eye.

By this time the no wind situation had changed to a light breeze. Just enough wind to accentuate the night’s chill from tolerable to downright frosty, to say the least. The rest of the night was cold and uneventful as I stood watch. Judy arose to see our first beautiful sunrise in Mexico. She got busy making/spilling coffee on counters, stove etc. She is taking to cooking at sea with gusto. Well, with expletives anyway. Her language during her coffee making was quite colorful. At the very least, matching the sunrise. She appeared in the companionway holding two half filled cups in one hand and with the other in a death grip on the overhead rail. I relieved her of the two half full coffees as she navigated through the companion entrance. At this point I don’t believe she had quite ascertained the proper use of one’s legs at sea, commonly known as “sea legs.” The rest of the morning was uneventful, until we entered Bahia Todos Santos. Upon our arrival, we were greeted by thirty to forty Dolphins racing around the boat and jumping in the air to Judy’s delighted squeals.

As in all things concerning life, nothing is perfect. We were instructed to call Baja Naval upon our approach to the harbor on VHF-77. I hailed them on both of our radios to no avail. We finally called them on the phone and were instructed where to dock. I went to the office and made arrangements to meet in the morning, to have them peruse our papers, to ascertain if everything is in order. We will then submit them to the authorities for visas etc. If we wish, we can have a person rom Baja Naval go with us to help, for a fee, of course.

When I returned to e boat Judy had many questions I couldn’t answer. Simple questions such as; where is the bathroom, showers etc. All I can say in my defense is that after three days of an average of two hours sleep a night and no sleep the previous night, I was a little bit tired and not quite up to par. We then went to get something to eat and find a bank. I was starved, as I had not eaten since the previous day. I must stop doing that. We walked down the bay front and were, according to Judy, accosted by Hawkers selling everything from food to clothing in their tiny shops and off their karts. I have to admit that they were rather pushy, following us down the street. It is sad that they seem to be forced to do this, as the competition is extreme, with so few customers around. This seemed more stressful for Judy than me. I have spent more time here and am used to it in tour areas. She will like the small towns more, I am sure. After a couple of hours and many dead ends, we located a bank. When we located the teller machine inside,we realized there was a problem. Everything was in Spanish, duh! Judy got in line and asked for assistance. One of the tellers spoke English and graciously volunteered to help. She showed us how to work the machine in the bank and explained the exchange rates. She was a very nice young lady and very helpful.

Judy had said she wanted to stop back at a restaurant she saw lobster advertised at. When we were stopped at the entrance to it, we were sighted by the hawkers who started yelling in Spanish at us to buy their products. Judy became rather distraught, saying it didn’t “look like a restaurant” and didn’t want to go in. We ended up walking back through the gauntlet of hawkers to the boat for a sandwich and some sleep.

I am writing this at three thirty in the morning on our second day. I could not lie down any longer, due to my back. When Judy wakes, maybe we can get a good breakfast burrito, and then get our visas and find out why they couldn’t receive us on our radios. It will then be time to catch a window for our next passage. Via Con Dios!

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Blustery in SD

The weather has been great here until today. I walked into town (7 miles round trip) to pick up a spare electric fuel pump, for the second day in a row. On the way back it started raining. By the time I had walked the three and a half miles back to the dinghy dock it was raining like a cow pissing on a flat rock. Of course I didn't have a rain coat, so was getting a bit wet. I jumped into the dinghy, fired the engine and got about four feet before the engine rev-ed up, but the boat ceased to go forward. Luck was with me as I was able to dive to one side and barley grab another dinghy before the wind got hold and carried me away. Damn, sheered a pin at a most inopportune time. And wouldn’t you know, I left the tool pouch on Wind Raven that has the shear pins in it. I also left the oars behind; I had no way to safeguard them from the local thieves that of late have been running rampant in the area. Besides, I sure as hell didn't want to pack them to town and back. Shit, stranded in the rain. I caught a passerby who never even slowed to my query of the use of his phone, to call my wife. He was the only other person in sight, so I walked back to the Coast Guard gate and borrowed their phone. I informed Judy of my self induced dilemma, and asked her to see if she could raise our neighbor and ask him if he would bring my tool kit over to me. When I returned to the dinghy dock there was a fellow cruiser untying his dinghy. Luckily, he was much more amiable and came to my rescue, giving me a ride to get my tool pouch from the boat. Upon arrival, Judy informed me that our neighbor had stuck his head out when she hailed him, looked around and then sucked it right back in. We headed back to the dock. I thanked him profusely, as he would not accept any gratuitous payment. I replaced the broken pin and headed back through the building white caps to the boat. Upon arrival Judy informed me that our neighbor came over dressed in his foulies to help us if needed. I guess he dashed back inside to put on his gear when he saw how wet and blustery it was out. What a nice guy. All in all ,it was a good lesson. I don't think I'll ever make that mistake again. We are supposed to get 60 MPH winds tonight so I let out another 30 ft of chain rode. The wind is coming from across the bay (leeward shore) so should be a long interesting night! The engine is ready, so should be leaving when the weather breaks. Notice I said should. I think I'm getting gun shy!




The wind only reached 50 MPH last night. Hell, I've sailed in 45 knot (over 51MPH) winds with no problem. It really wasn't that bad. Everyone left the anchorage early last night except six of us. Two had problems, both from ignorance or stupidity. Now that I think about it, when it comes to ignorance of the basics of cruising, that is stupidity! Kind of like me sheering a pin and not having oars onboard. That is unless you can't read. For instance, one boat arrived in this normally calm anchorage in a 50' Ketch and dropped anchor much too close to another boat and failed to set the anchor. They just dropped it and let out about 50' of chain. This morning they are about 100 yds closer to the beach in very shallow water. Tide is going out so they had better move soon. The other boat by us failed to secure or take down their jib. It flapped away all night and the people never paid any attention. They stayed inside their boat all night. The jib is now in shreds. I can't guess how many times I went out and walked the deck , checking to make sure all was well last night. I think some people are just plain lazy. Personally, I can't afford to be lazy. It costs too damn much.

Letting out extra rode I believe was the ticket. I had 100' out in 14' of water at high tide. Most people only let out 50' at this anchorage and call it good. Then Murphy bites them in the butt.

We are just lazing around today, and will get to the Sea Of Cortez, someday maybe! God willing!!!!

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Manana!

With the engine reassembled yesterday, today I changed the oil, put the antifreeze in, and tried to bleed the fuel system. I say tried, because by the time I had it bled, the fuel in the filters would be down over an inch from the top. It was just draining down from, and emptying the filters  The fuel pump is on the engine side of the filters. It has to suck the fuel up from the tank in the keel (5'), and through two Racor 500 filters. It used to work fine, but maybe it's getting a little old and tired like me. I decided to take the easy way out this time and just add an electric fuel pump at the tank. In this way it gets to push the fuel up through the filters to the other     pump, as it was designed to do. So it was off to the parts house for a new fuel pump. A mere 3 1/2 miles away. While walking to the parts house, we came upon a used marine store. We picked up two blocks that are needed for us to sail wing on wing down Baha. We made it to the parts store, picked up the pump and then headed over to a Mexican restaurant for lunch. The walk back was good for digesting that big meal. By the time we returned to the boat, I was too tired, or just lazy, to put the fuel pump on. So I think it is a good time to practice living in Mexico. And just say "Manana!